Rolex has a very specific coding in all parts that helps you recognise the authenticity of the watch and parts especially when you are buying a preloved watch. The market of preloved watches is booming and actually in just numbers is bigger and generates billions in a yearly bases it is considered massively bigger that the first hand market.
The reasons that this is happening are many. Firstly it is price oriented, in many cases you can buy your favorite watch without having to buy it full price and in many cases depending the condition of the watch you can shave up to 40%. The second reason is that watches are like money, the change hands a lot as their value goes up over the years and in many cases they can be considered a great investment. And last but not least you can find collective watches only to the preloved market that will add important value to your collection. In the articles published you can recognise the collectable watches and understand what makes them so unique.
Rolex Bracelet Clasp Code
Quick Look on The Rolex Bracelet Clasp Code and Year
In the table above you can spot the year of production and the Rolex Bracelet Clasp Code, this is really important especially if you choose to purchase a preloved watch as you need to check that all the parts of the watch are original and matches the production year as well as the model type.
For example in many cases you can find that the year of the bracelet doesnt match the year of the model of the watch in this case you should get in contact with your watch dealer and inform him regarding the miss match and ask either for a refund or for a replacement as this decreases the value of your watch. Don’t miss the amazing article regarding Rolex Bezel Code Numbers
TABLE FOR ROLEX BRACELET CLASP CODES
Want to learn the year of production for your Rolex Clasp? Find below the year according to the letter engraved on your clasp.
The Rolex Code Number can be spotted between the lungs of the bracelet. In order to spot that you need to remove carefully the bracelet other informations included is the Rolex Model Number Code
Rolex Bezel Code
Table of Rolex Bezel Code Number
In the above table you can find according to the code number the description of the bezel. Learn more about Rolex Coding, do you want to learn more about Rolex Bracelet Clasp Code?
Smooth/ Domed Polished Bezel Code O
Plain Bezel without anything engraved or anything in particular its the simplest form of bezel you can find.
Rolex Smooth Bezel
Engine Engine Turned Code 1
The bezel you can spot some decorative lines engraved. The last Rolex that had such a bezel was Rolex with ref. 115210 that was discontinued in 2016.
ROLEX ENGINE BEZEL 1
Engraved Code 2
On the inside part of the bezel you can spot the Rolex engraved, it is easy to spot it when you turn on the side your watch.
ROLEX ENGRAVED BEZEL
Fluted Code 3
Rolex first launched this elegant bezel with the symmetrical crafted lines around the bezel so as to screw the bezel and secure that the watch would be waterproof.
ROLEX FLUTED BEZEL
Bark/ Hand Crafted Code 4
Rolex Bark Bezel was the only bezel that can be spotted only to one Rolex Model and that said would be the Rolex President Day Date, it was called bark due to this specific texture of the bezel as seen below.
ROLEX BARK BEZEL
Pyramid Code 5
What an amazing and hard to find bezel as it is considered one of the rarest. Introduced by Rolex in the 1980s took his name due to the specific triangles spotted around the bezel providing such a unique aesthetic.
ROLEX PYRAMID BEZEL
Rotatable Bezel Code 6
The Rotatable Bezel can actually rotate!
ROLEX ROTATABLE BEZEL
Various Bezel Code 7
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Rolex Code can be found on the bracelet links near the watch case, the 5th digit reveals the material that the bracelet is made of.
ROLEX BRACELET CODE
ROLEX BRACELET, how can you identify the Material?
The above list can help you identify the material that your bracelet is made off. All you need to do is follow the code number that you found on your watch and learn in just one second! Do you want to learn more about your Rolex Clasp Code?
In this article we are providing you with a very quick and comprehensive diagram of all Rolex Watch Types and their reference number. It serves as a quick guide for the very first entry into the Rolex amazing world, a world full of luxury, innovation and the country of the most amazing minds that their goal in life was to exceed their presence with something bigger. This article is the very start of discovering the amazing watch world.
ROLEX MODEL TYPES
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Rolex Model Types Reference
Submariner (no date)
55 & 140
Submariner
16, 166 & 168
Sea Dweller
16 & 166
GMT Master
16, 65, 167
GMT Master II
167, 1167
Day-Date (President)
65, 66, 18, 180, 182 & 183
Datejust
16 & 162
Daytona Manual Wind
62
Daytona Cosmograph
165, 1165
Explorer II
165
Oyster Perpetual
10, 140, 142
Airking
55 & 140
Date
15 & 150
OysterquartzDatejust
170
Oysterquartz Day-Date
190
Yachtmaster
166, 686 & 696
Midsize Oyster Perp DJ
68, 682
Ladies Oyster Perpetual
67, 671, 672
Ladies Date
65, 69, 691 & 692
Ladies Datejust
65, 69, 691 & 692
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Is considered one of the most iconic watches of Rolex. Introduced in 1954 and making a huge impact to the watch lover society as it was the first waterproof watch up to 100 meters. This iconic watch was meant to be a symbol of elegance and status in the following decades loved by celebrities and watch lovers around the globe. But lets see and learn more about the most iconic Submariner Watches.
ROLEX SUBMARINER Special T Edition 5513
In the late 1960s a special Edition under 5513 was released for the British Royal Navy with engraved caseback and a 1520 movement. On the dial the 600ft aca 200m you can spot inside a circle the letter T. This special edition could only wear a non reflective cloth strap therefore the bars were manufactured in that way. In 2021 Christies sold an amazing 5513 sold for HKD 1,750,000
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513 SPECIAL T
ROLEX SUBMARINER James Bond
Named after the most famous movie of all time as James Bond (Sean Connery) in the first four films was wearing a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538, 5513 and 6538 in ‘Dr. No’. For many it is considered as a crucial moment in the history of submariner as it turned the public opinion from a watch that was highly connected only with divers to an elegant watch that can even match a black tie event.
ROLEX SUBMARINER JAMES BOND
1960-1973, ROLEX Red SUBMARINER Ref 1680
The Rolex Red Submariner with Ref. 1680, considered as the first submariner with date was produced between 1960-1973. For over 13 years this submariner has been popular and loved from the sea lovers, as it is considered one of the first Submariners its highly collective although its production is not limited.
Technical Characteristics
Reference: 1680
Dial: Black
Caliber: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels
Case: stainless steel, screw down case back
Size: 40 mm diameter
ROLEX Red SUBMARINER Ref 1680
1966, ROLEX SUBMARINER COMEX
In 1966 Rolex started working on an amazing new project with the diving company COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’ Expertise). COMEX was created out of Henri Germain Delauze passion in order to explore the sea in extreme depth. He and his team managed to push again and again the boundaries in order to uncover the unknown. This was the start of one of the most amazing projects of Rolex with the special Submariner COMEX.
Comex divers needed an advanced watch as they used to spend long hours in pressuring champers breathing helium and oxygen gasses. During this time the helium molecules were able to penetrate the watch. At the end of this procedure the divers were brought back to the atmospheric pressure creating a built up pressure inside the watch that had as a result the crystal to be pushed out of the watch creating damage to the watch. In order to solve this problem Rolex fitted an ingenious gas escape valve in the Submariner Sea- Dweller 2000.
ROLEX SUBMARINER COMEX
ROLEX SUBMARINER Starbucks Ref 116610LV
The Rolex Submariner 116610LV with a 3135 movement has been known as ‘Starbucks’ due to its similarity with Starbucks logo adding one more nickname under the Submariner collection. You can spot it easily due to its distinguish black dial combined with the green bezel.
ROLEX SUBMARINER Starbucks 116610LV
ROLEX SUBMARINER Kermit Ref 166610LV
The Rolex Submariner 166610LV with a 3135 movement known as Kermit first launched in 2003 immediately recognisable due to its green aluminum bezel insert making it one of the most collectable Rolex Submariners. The Rolex Submariner anniversary marking the 50th anniversary.
The extension LV comes from “Lunette Verte” (aka. Green Bezel). It is really important when its comes to authentication to have in mind that as it known that we have differences between the American and the European Editions that LV mention does not appear on the first generations of European certificate but the only appear in the America Edition.
ROLEX SUBMARINER KERMIT Ref 166610LV
ROLEX SUBMARINER Smurf Ref 116619LB
The Rolex Smurf Submariner 116619LB with a 3135 movement first launched in 2008 marking the 55th anniversary of the Submariner with a special edition blue ceracrhom bezel and matching blue dial that reminded the most well known Belzin comics “The Smurfs”. The watch was produced until 2020 with a 40mm diameter in white gold.
Today we are going to talk about one of the most not so well known model of Rolex, ROLEX CELLINI. The first time that it was introduced to me I didn’t recognise any of the characteristic elements of Rolex aesthetic. It was a pretty gold Cellini that belonged to one of my clients father , a quite rare, beautiful manual winding in a perfect condition vintage wrist watch that made me be curious and search a little bit more regarding its history and frankly was really surprised from my findings.
ROLEX CELLINI History
Cellini was first introduced to the market in 1968 as a dress watch, a watch that you can wear in formal gatherings and it was named after the Buenvenuto Cellini, an Italian painter and goldsmith that lived between 1500-1571 in Florence and is well known for his sculpture of Perseus with the Head of Medusa from the Greek Mythology.
Since 1968 many models have introduced in the international markets, all of them unique holding the tradition of manual winding watches quite rare if you considered the rest sporty looks of Rolex watches and so exclusive and luxury with a variety of gold, platinum and diamond watches. Although not really famous considered other models in that category such as SARU, LEOPARD etc they are playing an important watch among elegant, exclusive and luxury watches and have their own small but yet important audience.
ROLEX CELLINI Models and Reference Numbers
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 6693
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 6693
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 6693
CIRCA: 1998
CAL: quartz
CASE:18k gold
DIAMETER:35 mm
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 6692
ROLEX CELLINI 6692
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 6692
CIRCA: 2001
CAL: quartz
CASE:18k gold
DIAMETER:35 mm
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 6673
ROLEX CELLINI 6673
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 6673
CIRCA: 2001
CAL: quartz
CASE:18k gold
DIAMETER:27 mm
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 3601
ROLEX CELLINI 3601
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 3601
CIRCA: 2001
CAL: MANUALL
CASE:GOLD
DIAMETER:31 mm
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 5540
ROLEX CELLINI 5440
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 5440
CIRCA: 2005
CAL: MANUALL
CASE:18K GOLD
DIAMETER:27.5 mm
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 6651
ROLEX CELLINI 6651
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 6651
CIRCA: 1991
CAL: 6620 quartz
CASE:18k gold
DIAMETER:29 mm
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 6623
ROLEX CELLINI 6623
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 6623
CIRCA: 1990
CAL: 6620 quartz
CASE:18k gold
DIAMETER:37 mm
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 5240
ROLEX CELLINI 5240
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 5240
CIRCA: 2001
CAL: MANUALL
CASE:PLATINUM
DIAMETER:35 mm
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 4233
ROLEX CELLINI 4233
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 4233
CIRCA: 2001
CAL: MANUALL
CASE:WHITE AND YELLOW GOLD
DIAMETER:32 mm
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 4113
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 4113
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 4113
CIRCA: 1978
CAL: manual winding
CASE: 18k yellow gold
DIAMETER: 34 mm
ROLEX CELLINI Ref 4112
ROLEX CELLINI 4112
Technical Characteristics
REFERENCE: 4112
CIRCA: 1987
CAL: 1602 manual winding, 19 jewels
CASE: 18k yellow gold, snap-on case back
DIAMETER: 32 mm
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I am personally in love with Rolex Milgauss History and this amazing watch that was discontinued in 2023 had his glory days in that year as everyone start looking more carefully this amazing and unique watch with his unique design and quite poetic hands. Maybe with Milgauss in this article you can find me exaggerating but honestly I can hide my love for this absolutely amazing watch were everything is unique.
ROLEX MILGAUSS
ROLEX MILGAUSS Reference 6451
Rolex Milgauss was introduced in 1956 under the reference 6451, designed to serve the specific needs of the science and had the need of an antimagnetic watch. The scientist till then has a specific problem to face the time was disrupt due to the electromagnetic field that was greater than 50 to 100 gauss. That had as a result the scientists either not to wear a watch or to have a watch that was not working properly.
The need of a watch that would overcome this difficulties was vital, and Rolex as always accepted this challenge and Milgauss was created that took its name after Mil that comes from the French world 1000 and Gauss- that is used in order to measure the magnetic field.
In the 1950s Rolex Milgauss was tested by the European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN), the European Organization for Nuclear Research, is one of the world’s largest and most respected centres for scientific research that started operating in 1952. CERN results were important not only for both scientific and watch community as they were able to identify that Milgauss resisted magnetic fields up to 1000 gauss.
Nevertheless the watch was not particular popular to the rest of the world and was discontinued in 1988. In 2007 Rolex decided to give one more chance to this iconic and special watch under the reference 116400 that was discontinued again in 2023.
ROLEX MILGAUSS Reference Numbers
1019: One of the most sought-after vintage Milgauss. Without luminous dots as requested by CERN who needed watch which wouldn’t interfere with their experiments since the tritium used as the luminous material emitted radioactive ”signals”. Because of this non-lune version, the 1019 Milgauss has become one of the more desirable vintage Milgauss models.
6541: Similar to an early Submariner in its case design. 25-jewel, self-winding movement. Featuring a black rotating bezel. lightning bolt-shaped seconds hand.
116400GV: The anniversary Milgauss edition “glass verte” with green sapphire glass.
116400: The first model in Rolex’s revived Milgauss collection which launched in 2007 after nearly two decades of absence.
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In this article we take a close look at all Rolex Explore Models providing the technical characteristics of the models as well as photos of Rolex Explorer Models.
Rolex Pre Explorer Ref 6150 (1953)
6150 can be described as equally iconic and important in the Rolex Explorer Models collection as 6298. It is considered the earliest version of Explorer that isn’t signed as Explorer on the dial . Calibre: cal. A2960 automatic, 2 jewels, Movement number: 47’718 Size: 36 MM
Rolex Explorer Ref 6350 (1953 to 1955)
Presented in 1953, the first watch that carried the Explorer name in its dial, Caliber 1030 movement
Rolex Explorer I Ref 6610 (1955 to 1959)
One of the first Rolex Explorer Models 6610 first featured in 1959 as the replacement of 6150, with its amazing steel case, Oyster bracelet in 36mm and a black gilt dial, 3, 6, 9 indexes with tritium lime.
Reference 6610 “Red Depth Rating” (1955 to 1956)
Rolex Explorer Super Precision Ref 5504 (1958)
In 1958 Rolex Explorer Super Precision with Ref 5504 was introduced to the market. 5504 is actually identical with 6610 with Cal: 1030, Diameter: 36MM Crystal: Plexiglass, Dial: 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals.
Rolex Explorer II Ref 5500 (1958 – 1967)
5500 is a tricky watch as it is actually an Air King with the typical 3,6,9 Explorer dial. Available in two versions Precision and Super Precision with a limited number of pieces as it was only produced between 1958 – 1967. Calibre: cal. 1520 automatic winding, 26 jewels Diameter:34 MM
Rolex Explorer Ref 1016 (1960 to 1989)
Rolex Explorer 1016 was presented in the late 1950s with its amazing glossy and matte black dial, carrying Cal 1560 and 1570, Diameter: 36MM, Dial: 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals in tritium lume. Discontinued in 1989 and replaced by 14270.
Rolex Explorer I Ref 14270 (1989-2010)
REFERENCE 14270: Explorer I model. No-Date. SIZE: 36mm. DIAL: 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals.CALIBER: 3000
ROLEX EXPLORER 14270
Rolex Explorer II Nicknamed “Steve McQueen” Ref 1655
One of the most sought out of Rolex Explore Models is the ” Steve McQueen”. The amazing Explorer II that Steve McQueen used to wear in real life therefore 1655 took its name after this amazing actor that was highly connected with him.
Reference 16570: With its unique Polar Dial produced in both Black and White, 24-hour bezel, GMT hand, Case: Stainless steel, Dimensions: 40MM. Due to a mistake in the production in the early series some of the white dials are creamy.
ROLEX EXPLORER 16570
Rolex Explorer II Ref 16550
With 24-hour bezel Hands, luminous 24-hour big arrow hand, the Rolex Explorer II reference 16550 is a watch that was dedicated to those who spent long periods of time in dark environments such as spelunkers. It is considered a predecessor of 16570.
ROLEX EXPLORER 16550
Rolex Explorer I Ref 6298 “Big Bubblebacks”
This is considered as the prototype watch used by explorers in the early 1950s that lead Rolex to create a special line for the adventurers the till now known as the Explorer also called “Big Bubblebacks” due to its case back. CALIBRE : A296 Automatic and Dimension: 36MM
ROLEX EXPLORER 6298
Rolex Explorer Ref 6098
Introduced in the 1950s it was the only Explorer with a white dial and without feature Arabic numerals at the quarters until of the Explorer II. It is also considered as the successor of 5520. Diameter: 36MM, Cal: a 296/
Rolex Explorer II Ref 5506
This amazing watch was presented in the mid 1950s , it was the first time that Rolex used 1530 automatic movement and was available in two tone and gold filled case. Dimensions: 34MM Movement: Automatic Rolex Caliber 1520.
Rolex Explorer II Ref 216570
Introduced in 2015 Dial: Black and White, Dimension 42mm, stainless steel automatic dual time wristwatch with date and bracelet, Circa: 2015, Caliber: cal. 3187 automatic, 31 jewels.
Rolex Explorer II Ref 16570
Dial: Black and White, Calibre: cal. 3185 automatic, 31 jewels Dimension 39mm. It is important to note that in 1995 Rolex with Van Cleef collaborate in order to create a special edition dial that was sold in Sothebys. Its unique dial signed by Van Cleef is making it extremely collectable and rare in the Rolex Explorer Models Collection.
Rolex Explorer II Ref 6299
6299 : The reference 6299, as opposed to the standard 6298, refers to the watch being Yellow gold/stainless steel as opposed to the ref 6298 being only stainless steel.
Rolex Explorer II Ref 5501
Is also considered to be part of the big Air King collection that was presented in 1945 with its fluted gold bezel and named ”Precision” on the dial and the text ”Explorer”. Some of this models have a honeymoon dial making the watch extremely rare and highly collective. Calibre: cal. 1530 automatic, 25 jewels, Diameter: 34MM
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The Rolex Air-King was introduced in 1945, alongside the Datejust in order to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Rolex with 4635. This new model paid tribute to the British Royal Air Force that loved Rolex watches , and as it was introduced during World War II it was named Air King. In its early days it was not popular up until the introduction of 5500 in 1957 that can perceived actually as the starting point of Rolex Air King history.
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 4635
Made in the 1940s. The first Rolex Air-King, Circa: 1940s Ref: 4635, Dial: Bâton Indexes with Arabic Numerals , Caliber: Cal.10 1/2 , Case: Rhodium-Plated, Dimensions: 33 MM
ROLEX AIR-KING 4635
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 4925
Is the first Rolex Air King that feature the Air-King Moniker on the dial. Reference: 4925, Circa: 1956, Dimensions: 33MM
In 1989 Rolex introduced the 14000 that was discontinued 10 year laters in 1999. The original idea was to replace the 5500 with a new model that would offer a sapphire crystal, a smooth bezel and the 3000 movement to its fans.
Reference: 14010M, Produced: 2006, Dimensions: 34MM Caliber: 3130 Automatic movement
ROLEX AIR-KING 14010M
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 114234
Reference: 114234, Produced: 2006, Dimensions: 34MM Caliber: 3130 Automatic movement. Is considered the last model of the first generation of Air King 34MM it discontinued in 2014 after 7 years only. In 2016, Rolex re -introduced Rolex Air- King with the 40mm Ref 116900.
The 1002 is often quoted as an Air-King model, but it never was – it was only an Oyster perpetual.
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 1401
Stainless Steel. Water Resistant to 100 meters.
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 5701
A less-common model than most Air-King references.
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 116900
The newest and current Air-King model. Released in 2016. 39mm case.
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The idea of creating an article regarding ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCES came when I was trying to understand the changes that this amazing model went through over its decades of production. It was really hard for me to understand back then all this details through all this long articles therefore I created a short and comprehensive little note keeping all the important milestones of the evolution of Submariners that would help me understand and identify Rolex Submariners changes over the years.
One of my most loved watches that can be your best friend and a true partner in crime in life. Born to exceed life and be adventurous, be with you in everyday life but also to posh events. A true best friend lets say…
ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCES
ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCES
Important Milestones of Rolex Submariner
6204: First Submariner without crown guards and 37mm case.
6205: Early Submariner without crown guards and 37mm case.
6200: Early Submariner without crown guards and a ’ 3-6-9 “Explorer dial”.
6536: Early Submariner with bigger crown and 38mm case.
6536/1: Early Submariner with a small crown – James Bond.
6538: Early Submariner presented with both the 3-6-9 dial and a 38mm case.
A/6538: 6538 the military watch made for Special Boat Squadron in 21 copies not launched in public, highly collective.
5508: Early Submariner with no crown guards and 37mm case.
5510: Early Submariner with a 38mm case no crown guards.
5512: A new case with crown guards and 40mm, COSC-certified written text on the dial.
5513: Same as 5512 but without the COSC-certified text on the dial.
5517 or 5513/17: Made for the British military known for its sword-hands.
5514: The same as 5513, extra feature gas escape valve for Comex divers.
1680: First Submariner with Date. Submariner text written in red and white.
16803:Two-Tone Submariner. Blue and black dial and bezel.
16808: Yellow Gold Submariner.
16800: Dial with white gold index.
168000: The new version of 16800.
16610: Updated Submariner from 1680. A Rehaut (Rehaut is an inner ring or flange that surrounds the dial, typically located just inside the crystal or the outer circumference of the dial) and with a regular Case .
16613: Two-Tone Submariner with blue and black dial and bezel. Rehaut and a regular Case.
16618: Yellow gold Submariner. Rehaut and a regular Case.
14060: Updated. No date Submariner.
14060M: Updated. Rehaut and a regular Case.
16610LV: 50s years Anniversary Edition. Green bezel.
116610LN: Ceramic bezel. New case.
116610LV: Green Ceramic bezel. New case.
116613: Two-Tone Ceramic. Black and Blue dial and bezel.
116618LB: Yellow Gold Submariner. Black and Blue dial and bezel.
116619LB: White Gold Submariner. Black and Blue dial and bezel.
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