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ROLEX SUBMARINER

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Rolex Submariner is one of the most important watches in the Rolex Collection.

ROLEX SUMBARINER 6204

The first model was launched in 1953 with Reference Number 6204 and is considered one of the most unique collective watches as its is the First Submariner A.260.

ROLEX SUMBARINER 6204 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 6204
CIRCA: 1953
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel
DIAMETER: 37mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet
BRACELET / STRAP SIZE: 7.1 inches
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: A260

ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCE 6204
ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCE 6204

ROLEX SUBMARINER 6205

The following years (1954) the second First Submarine A.260 was launched with reference number 6205

ROLEX SUBMARINER 6205 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 6205
CIRCA: 1954
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                        DIAMETER: 37mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: A260
rolexsubmariner6205
rolexsubmariner6205

ROLEX SUBMARINER  6200

In 1954 it was introduced the Rolex Submariner  Ref6200  A.296

ROLEX SUBMARINER  6200 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 6200
CIRCA: 1954
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                        DIAMETER: 37mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: A296

rolexsubmariner6200
rolexsubmariner6200

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538

In 1954 Rolex introduced Rolex Submariner with Reference 6538 -1030 the one featured in the photo below is a special one with this amazing unique tropical dial. It is also known as Big Crown due to its 8mm Crown and one of the most sought out watches as it was the watch of James Bond in Dr No!

ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 6538
CIRCA: 1954
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                        DIAMETER: 37mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: 1030

rolexsubmariner6538
RolexSubmariner6538

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538A

The Rolex Submariner 6538A the Military Submariner 1030 also known as “Coroncione”. It is considered one of the first Single Red Submariner as it has this red depth rating on the lower part of index.  It is said but not confirmed by Rolex that they we only 21 watches produced under that specific reference due to the spacial need of the Royal Marine to be able to spin the bezel with their diving gloves. As the production of this watch was so limited the 6538A is considered one of the rarest Rolex watches.

ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538A has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 6538A
CIRCA: 1955
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                        DIAMETER: 37mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: 1030

rolexsubmariner6538a
rolexsubmariner6538a

 

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER 6536 JAMES BOND

Rolex Submariner 6536 was introduced to the global market between 1955-1959. Also Know as The James Bond Watch, the Rolex Submariner 6536 with the 1030 Caliber is a watch that will be always one of my favorite watches. Caring a lot of history not only cause James Bond is my favorite movie but also with its unique “Small Crown” of 6mm that differs from the “Big Crown” of 8mm .

ROLEX SUBMARINER 6536 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 6536
CIRCA: 1955-1959
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                        DIAMETER: 37mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: 1030

rolexsubmariner6536/1
rolexsubmariner6536/1

 

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5508

The Rolex Submariner 5508 was produced between 1957-1961, with also its Small Crown of 6mm and its Caliber 1530.

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5508 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 5508
CIRCA: 1957-1961
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                        DIAMETER: 37mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: 1530, 26 jewels

rolexsubmariner5508

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5510

Rolex Submariner was produced just for one year in 1958 with a 1530 Caliber and two variation in the crown a Small Crown of 6mm and a Big Crown of 8mm.

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5510 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 5510
CIRCA: 1958
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                        DIAMETER: 37mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet                                                                                          CROWN: Small & Big
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: 1530, 26 jewels

rolexsubmariner5510
rolexsubmariner5510

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5512 Chronometer

The Rolex Submariner 5512 is one of the most collective watches for all the watch enthusiast as it is the only watch that in the almost two decades of its life between 1959-1978 changed so much. The first characteristic is its Caliber, during this two decades the Caliber changed from 1530 to 1560 and lastly to 1570.

What about its dial?

The second characteristic is its dial that until 1966 it was spotted with only black glossy dial that changed to a matte version. Have in mind that if you bump into a glossy dial you need to buy it as quickly as possible as they are considered quick rare and its price multiple in auctions.

Size matters

Another interesting element is that its size changed for the first time from 38mm to 40mm.

But why Chronometer?

The Calliber 1530 was the Calliber needed from the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) in order to obtail the certification of  “chronometer” title that was certifying the high level of precision and uniqueness of timekeeping instruments and that guarantee the extreme quality, as well as the know-how applied throughout the production process. Therefore two lines were added so as to describe the “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”

Crown Guards

The last change that we can spot in Rolex Submariner 5512 that had a significant impact in the appearance of Submariners was the “shoulders” that were first introduced and its role was to protect the big crown and the mechanism of the Rolex and became a trademark of the Submariners

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5512 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 5512
CIRCA: 1959-1978
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                        DIAMETER: 40mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet                                                                                          CROWN: Small & Big
DIAL: Black (Glossy & Matte)
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: 1530- 1560-1570

rolexsubmariner5512
rolexsubmariner5512

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513 First Crown

Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1962 and was discontinued in 1989.  Is is known as the First Crown Guard as it was the first one that Crown were added and was spotted with Calliber 1520 and 1530.

Its usefull to know that up until 1980 the customers could chose between a certified by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) and a non  certified Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) Submariner.

What about the dials?

This is really interesting as in this specific model we can spot all the basic variations of dials provided by Rolex. Between 1962-1966 the Submariner was introduced with a Gilt dial followed between 1966-1984 from a Matte dial and then between 1984-1990 with a gloss dial, following the opposite path of 5512 that were first introduced with a glossy dial later changer to a matte.

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 5513
CIRCA: 1962-1989
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                        DIAMETER: 40mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet                                                                                          CROWN: First Crown
DIAL: Black (Gilt& Matte &Glossy )
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: 1530- 1520

rolexsubmariner5513
rolexsubmariner5513

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5514 Comex

My favorite Submariner, maybe because this was the first Rolex that was introduced to me and I fell in love with watches and their history. You can spot it between 1969-1977 named Rolex Submariner Comex with a 1520 Caliber.

But why Comex?

Rolex worked closed with Compagnie Maritime d’ Expertises known as COMEX in order to design and manufacture a special watch addressed to the special needs of COMEX divers. As divers go to extreme depth there was a special need to develop a special watch that would release the pressure, this was the beginning of the unique COMEX. You can spot them immediately as you can see COMEX logo on the dial. With a limited production of 800-1000 watches it is considered a limited must have watch!

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5514 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 5514
CIRCA: 1969-1977
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                        DIAMETER: 40mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet                                                                                          
DIAL: Black & COMO logo
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: 1520

rolex submariner comex 5514
Rolex Submariner Comex 5514

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER 1680/8 First Date

The Rolex Submariner 1680 Cal 1570 was produced between 1969-1978 and is the one that has many firsts , it is the first Sub that feature a date therefore its also called the First Date, the first one that was produced in yellow gold and the first one that has a cyclops lens in the plexi glass. Lastly but not least the matt black dial in the one featured above has also yellow gold markers the dial also known as the “nipple dial”.

ROLEX SUBMARINER 1680/8 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 1680/8
CIRCA: 1969-1978
CASE MATERIAL: Yellow Gold                                                                                                                                            DIAMETER: 39mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Oyster Bracelet                                                                                          
DIAL: Black – Nipple Dial
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time – Date
CALIBER: 1570 automatic, 26 jewels

rolexsub1680/8
rolexsub1680/8

ROLEX SUBMARINER 1680

Rolex Submariner launched in 1969 and discontinued in 1979 is described as the First Submariner with Date and Caliber 1575. A beautiful 40mm stainless steel Submariner.

Red Submariner

This amazing Submariner as seen on the photo below can be easily been unidentified as an early piece due to its red writing of the Submariner in the dial also called among Rolex lovers the ” Red Submariner”.

ROLEX SUBMARINER 1680 has the following characteristics:

REFERENCE: 1680
CIRCA: 1969-1979
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel                                                                                                                                           DIAMETER: 40mm
BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Oyster Bracelet                                                                                          
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
CALIBER: 1575 automatic, 26 jewels

Rolex Red Submariner
Rolex Red Submariner

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513/5517

19705513/5517Submariner

DATES REFERENCE MODEL
1953-1954 6204 First Submariner A.260
1954-1955 6205 First Submariner A.260
1954 6200 Mercedes Hands – A.296
1955 – 1959 6538 First Submariner with Big Crown “James Bond” worn by Sean Connery in Dr. No
1955 – 1959 6538A Military Submariner 1030 “Coroncione”
1955 – 1959 6536 Small Crown 1030
1955 – 1959 6536/1 Chronometer 1030
1957 – 1961 5508 Small Crown 1530
1958 5510 Small Crown 1530
1958 5510 Big Crown 1530
1959 – 1978 5512 Chronometer- The Cornini 1530-1560-1570
1962 – 1989 5513 First Crown Guard 1520-1530
1969 – 1977 5514 Comex Submariner 1520
1969 – 1978 1680/8 First DATE in Yellow Gold 1570
1969 – 1979 1680 First Submariner Date 1575
1970 5513/5517 Submariner
1977 5517 Military Submariner 1520
1979 – 1987 16808 Submariner Date Sapphire crystal Gold 3035
1979 – 1988 16800 Submariner Date Transitional model 3035
1983 – 1988 16803 Submariner Date Sapphire crystal SS/YG 3035
1986-1987 168000
1986** – Today 16610 Submariner Date Superluminova Dial 3135
1986** – Today 16613 Submariner Date Superlum. Dial SS/YG 3135
1986** – Today 16618 Submariner Date Superlum. Dial Gold 3135
1988*- 2001 14060 First with Sapphire crystal 3000
2001 – Today 14060M Updated Automatic Movement 3130
14060M Submariner
16610LV 50th Anniversary
2012-2019 114060 Submariner Ceramic bezel
2012-2019 116610LN Submariner Date with Ceramic bezel
2020 – present 124060 Submariner Caliber 3230

2020 – present

126610LN

Submariner Date Caliber 3235

The

ROLEX SUBMARINER

Is considered one of the most iconic watches of Rolex.  Introduced in 1954 and making a huge impact to the watch lover society as it was the first waterproof watch up to 100 meters. This iconic watch was meant to be a symbol of elegance and status in the following decades loved by celebrities and watch lovers around the globe.  But lets see and learn more about the most iconic Submariner Watches.

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER Special T Edition 5513

In the late 1960s a special Edition under 5513 was released for the British Royal Navy with engraved caseback and a 1520 movement. On the dial the 600ft aca 200m you can spot inside a circle the letter T. This special edition could only wear a non reflective cloth strap therefore the bars were manufactured in that way.  In 2021 Christies sold an amazing 5513 sold for HKD 1,750,000

ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513 SPECIAL T
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513 SPECIAL T

ROLEX SUBMARINER James Bond

Named after the most famous movie of all time as James Bond (Sean Connery) in the first four films  was wearing a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538, 5513 and 6538 in ‘Dr. No’. For many it is considered as a crucial moment in the history of submariner as it turned the public opinion from a watch that was highly connected only with divers to an elegant watch that can even match a black tie event. 

ROLEX SUBMARINER JAMES BOND
ROLEX SUBMARINER JAMES BOND

1960-1973, ROLEX Red SUBMARINER Ref 1680

The Rolex Red Submariner with Ref. 1680,  considered as the first submariner with date was produced between 1960-1973. For over 13 years this submariner has been popular and loved from the sea lovers, as it is considered one of the first Submariners its highly collective although its production is not limited.   

Technical Characteristics

Reference: 1680

Dial: Black

Caliber: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels

Case: stainless steel, screw down case back

Size: 40 mm diameter

ROLEX Red SUBMARINER Ref 1680
ROLEX Red SUBMARINER Ref 1680

 

1966, ROLEX SUBMARINER COMEX

In 1966 Rolex started working on an amazing new project with the diving company COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’ Expertise). COMEX was created out of  Henri Germain Delauze passion in order to explore the sea in extreme depth. He and his team managed to push again and again the boundaries in order to uncover the unknown. This was the start of one of the most amazing projects of Rolex with the special Submariner COMEX.

 Comex divers needed an advanced watch as they used to spend long hours in pressuring champers breathing helium and oxygen gasses. During this time the helium molecules were able to penetrate the watch. At the end of this procedure the divers were brought back to the atmospheric pressure creating a built up pressure inside the watch that had as a result the crystal to be pushed out of the watch creating damage to the watch. In order to solve this problem Rolex fitted an ingenious gas escape valve in the Submariner Sea- Dweller 2000. 

ROLEX SUBMARINER COMEX
ROLEX SUBMARINER COMEX

ROLEX SUBMARINER Starbucks Ref 116610LV

The Rolex Submariner 116610LV with a 3135 movement has been known as ‘Starbucks’ due to its similarity with Starbucks logo adding one more nickname under the Submariner collection.  You can spot it easily due to its distinguish black dial combined with the green bezel.

ROLEX SUBMARINER Starbucks 116610LV
ROLEX SUBMARINER Starbucks 116610LV

ROLEX SUBMARINER Kermit Ref 166610LV

The Rolex Submariner 166610LV with a 3135 movement known as Kermit first launched in 2003 immediately recognisable due to its green aluminum bezel insert making it one of the most collectable Rolex Submariners. The Rolex Submariner  anniversary marking the 50th anniversary.

The extension LV comes from “Lunette Verte” (aka. Green Bezel).  It is really important when its comes to authentication to have in mind that as it known that we have differences between the American and the European Editions that  LV mention does not appear on the first generations of European certificate but the only appear in the America Edition. 

ROLEX SUBMARINERKERMIT Ref 166610LV
ROLEX SUBMARINER
KERMIT
Ref 166610LV

                      

ROLEX SUBMARINER Smurf  Ref 116619LB

The Rolex Smurf Submariner 116619LB with a 3135 movement first launched in 2008 marking the 55th anniversary of the Submariner with a special edition blue ceracrhom bezel and matching blue dial that reminded the most well known Belzin comics “The Smurfs”. The watch was produced until 2020 with a 40mm diameter in white gold. 

ROLEX SUBMARINERSMURF Ref 116619LB
ROLEX SUBMARINER
SMURF
Ref 116619LB

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCES  in a glimpse

The idea of creating an article regarding ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCES came when I was trying to understand the changes that this amazing model went through over its decades of production. It was really hard for me to understand back then all  this details through all this long articles therefore I created a short and comprehensive little note keeping all the important milestones of the evolution of Submariners that would help me understand and identify Rolex Submariners changes over the years.

One of my most loved watches that can be your best  friend and a true partner in crime in life. Born to exceed life and be adventurous, be with you in everyday life but also to posh events.  A true best friend lets say…

ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCES
ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCES

ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCES

Important Milestones of Rolex Submariner

  • 6204:  First Submariner without crown guards and 37mm case.
  • 6205:  Early Submariner without crown guards and 37mm case.
  • 6200:  Early Submariner without crown guards and  a ’ 3-6-9 “Explorer dial”.
  • 6536:  Early Submariner with bigger crown and 38mm case.
  • 6536/1:  Early Submariner with a small crown – James Bond.
  • 6538:  Early Submariner presented with both the 3-6-9 dial and a 38mm case.
  • A/6538:  6538 the military watch made for Special Boat Squadron in 21 copies not launched in public, highly collective.
  • 5508:  Early Submariner with no crown guards and 37mm case.
  • 5510:  Early Submariner with a 38mm case no crown guards.
  • 5512:  A new case with crown guards and 40mm, COSC-certified written text on the dial.
  • 5513:  Same as 5512 but without the COSC-certified text on the dial.
  • 5517 or 5513/17:  Made for the British military known for its sword-hands. 
  • 5514:  The same as 5513, extra feature gas escape valve for Comex divers.
  • 1680:  First Submariner with Date. Submariner text written in red and white.
  • 16803: Two-Tone Submariner. Blue and black dial and bezel.
  • 16808: Yellow Gold Submariner.
  • 16800:  Dial with white gold index.
  • 168000: The new version of 16800.
  • 16610: Updated Submariner from 1680. A Rehaut (Rehaut is an inner ring or flange that surrounds the dial, typically located just inside the crystal or the outer circumference of the dial) and with a regular Case .
  • 16613: Two-Tone Submariner with blue and black dial and bezel. Rehaut and a regular Case. 
  • 16618: Yellow gold Submariner. Rehaut and a regular Case.
  • 14060: Updated. No date Submariner.
  • 14060M: Updated. Rehaut and a regular Case.
  • 16610LV: 50s years Anniversary Edition. Green bezel.
  • 116610LN: Ceramic bezel. New case. 
  • 116610LV: Green Ceramic bezel. New case. 
  • 116613: Two-Tone Ceramic. Black and Blue dial and bezel. 
  • 116618LB: Yellow Gold Submariner. Black and Blue dial and bezel.
  • 116619LB: White Gold Submariner. Black and Blue dial and bezel.

Want to learn more about Rolex History? Check out our article that describes how everything started.

Feel free to contact and share your thoughts with us your feedback is important as we are trying to create a unique interactive community for all the watch fanatics.

 

ROLEX SUBMARINER Models brief history

Rolex designed its very first first Submariner for the British Royal Navy. Presented in 1953, the Submariner was the first divers’ watch waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet) that gave them the ability with its rotatable bezel to read their immersion time. The Submariner has been ever since one of the most popular and cool sports watch not only among divers but for every watch addict who loves luxury sport watches.

ROLEX SUBMARINER
ROLEX SUBMARINER

ROLEX SUBMARINER REF 6538

The first Submariner was introduced in 1957 along with the GMT Master II. The modern-day version of the Submariner was based on the GMT Master II. The GMT Master was  a supercase that was originally used in military watches and carried the same case. It’s new case was about a mm larger than the originals. The new in-house calibers used in the watches were 3230 and 3235 respectively. The new calibers provide improved accuracy and power reserve. The first version of the Submariner, the 6538, was even used by James Bond in various movies. The Mercedes hand is a popular addition in the film.

ROLEX SUBMARINER REF 6200

The second version of the Submariner was launched in 1964. This was the first model with a date window. The Ref. 6200 introduced a number of improvements to the Submariner, some of which were carried forward to later models. The dial was more popular, with a date window and a cushion-shaped Oyster case. The watch’s design was influenced by the Rolex Explorer. 

Materials…

Rolex Submariner has undergone incredible changes over the years, introducing 16 years later since it was presented the gold version (1969). It is interesting to mention that although Rolex prototyped the white gold version of 1680 it never released it for production. And the most important watch was 1680 that introduced to the Submariner series yellow  gold. 

ROLEX SUBMARINER Milestones over the years

6204  First Submariner A.260  (1953 – 1954)

6205  First Submariner A.260  (1954 – 1955)

6200  Mercedes Hands – A.296 (1954)

6538  First Submariner with Big Crown “James Bond” worn by Sean Connery in Dr. No  (1955 – 1959)

6538A Military Submariner  1030 “Coroncione” (1955 – 1959)

6536  Small Crown  1030 (1955 – 1959)

6536/1  Chronometer  1030 (1955 – 1959)

5508  Small Crown  1530 (1957 – 1961)

5510  Small Crown  1530 (1958)

5510 (1958 only – Big Crown)

5512  Chronometer- The Cornini  1530-1560-1570 (1959 – 1978)

5513  First Crown Guard  1520-1530 (1962 – 1989)

5514  Comex Submariner  1520 (1969 – 1977)

1680/8  First DATE in Yellow Gold  1575 (1969 – 1978)

1680  First Submariner Date  1575 (1969 – 1979)

5517  Military Submariner  1520 (1977)

16808 Submariner Date  Sapphire crystal Gold  3035 (1979 – 1987)

16800 Submariner Date  Transitional model  3035 (1979 – 1988)

16803 Submariner Date  Sapphire crystal SS/YG 3035 (1983 – 1988)

16610 Submariner Date  Superluminova Dial  3135 (1986** – Today)

16613 Submariner Date Superlum. Dial SS/YG  3135 (1986** – Today)

16618 Submariner Date  Superlum. Dial Gold  3135 (1986** – Today)

14060 First with Sapphire crystal  3000 (1988*- 2001)

14060M  Updated Automatic Movement  3130 (2001 – Today)

14060M  Submariner 

16610LV 50th Anniversary

114060 Submariner Ceramic bezel (2012-2019)

116610LN Submariner Date with Ceramic bezel (2012-2019)

124060 Submariner (2020 – present) equipped with caliber 3230

126610LN Submariner Date (2020 – present) equipped with 3235

Want to learn more? Read our next article regarding the full history of Submariner

Rolex Submariner the Beginning 

In the beginning of 1950s scuba diving became a rising sport among young Americans therefore the need of a watch that would be waterproof and precise in order for the divers to have an accurate way of the time they spend underwater was created. In 1953 Rolex created the Rolex Submariner, a watch exclusively designed for the specific needs of scuba diving waterproof to a depth of 100m that has been evolve over the years up to 300 metres. Its unique characteristics such as its rotatable bezel and large hands has made it a unique watch among scuba divers.  

 

Rolex Submariner 6204 & 6205

Introduced officially a year later in 1954 the Submariner 6204, with an A260 movement and certified as waterproof up to 200 meters. The Submariner 6205, with a A260 movement and the Submariner 6200 fitted with A296 movement and a larger crown marked Brevet (patented) waterproof also up to 200 meters. In the following years quite a few collectors have questioned the chronological order of the first three models of Submariner but as a logic consequence we can safely say that as Submariner 6204 and 6205 share the same movement they were produced together and Submariner 6200 follows with a different and better movement A296. 

Rolex Submariner History
Rolex Submariner History

Auguste Piccard the incredible mind behind Rolex Submariner evolution

Are you up for it? It is always fascinating when two minds that don’t think alike join their forces and their creative minds. This happened when August Piccard and Rolex connected, but lets dive a little bit to the life of this incredible mind. August Piccard was a Swiss physicist and explorer that came into publicity due to his record breaking hydrogen balloon flights that allowed him to study Earths upper atmosphere and became the first person to enter the Stratosphere.  Piccard after this incredible journey on space, in 1948 he invented the first bathyscaphe that allowed the divers to explore the ocean in depths that they have never imagined before. 

In 1953 two very different Submariners were produced for the Swiss scientist Professor Auguste Piccard for his dives in Trieste named Deep Sea Specials and Piccard. On the 30th September 1953 with Deep Sea Specials, Rolex made a world record dive to 3155 with Auguste Piccard team. Seven years later in 1960 under Jaques Piccard’s son August  Piccard 7205/0 conquered a new world record to 11000 meters. 

1954 what an interesting year for Rolex Submariner!

1954 was a fascinating year for Submariner and Rolex fanatics as it is the year that Rolex is experimenting with the name of Submariner and launching Frogman, Skin Diver, Dive-O-Graph and Deep Sea Diver and does not conclude until the ten years later in the 1960s.

Rolex Submariner 1030 Movement

In 1955 Submariner re-released 6204 and 6205 with the new 1030 movement. 6204 was renamed as 6538 and 6536 replaced 6205 adding to them a larger crown. Rolex re offered 6536 with a chronometer version named 6536/1.

Rolex Submariner Reference Guide

This is your quick reference guide that includes the reference and the years of production, if you require more information regarding all the Submariners models please check our article “THE 32 AMAZING ROLEX SUBMARINER MODELS”

Rolex Submariner References (1953-Present)

6204  First Submariner A.260  (1953 – 1954)

6205  First Submariner A.260  (1954 – 1955)

6200  Mercedes Hands – A.296 (1954)

6538  First Submariner with Big Crown “James Bond” worn by Sean Connery in Dr. No  (1955 – 1959)

6538A Military Submariner  1030 “Coroncione” (1955 – 1959)

6536  Small Crown  1030 (1955 – 1959)

6536/1  Chronometer  1030 (1955 – 1959)

5508  Small Crown  1530 (1957 – 1961)

5510  Small Crown  1530 (1958)

5510 (1958 only – Big Crown)

5512  Chronometer- The Cornini  1530-1560-1570 (1959 – 1978)

5513  First Crown Guard  1520-1530 (1962 – 1989)

5514  Comex Submariner  1520 (1969 – 1977)

1680/8  First DATE in Yellow Gold  1575 (1969 – 1978)

1680  First Submariner Date  1575 (1969 – 1979)

5517  Military Submariner  1520 (1977)

16808 Submariner Date  Sapphire crystal Gold  3035 (1979 – 1987)

16800 Submariner Date  Transitional model  3035 (1979 – 1988)

16803 Submariner Date  Sapphire crystal SS/YG 3035 (1983 – 1988)

16610 Submariner Date  Superluminova Dial  3135 (1986** – Today)

16613 Submariner Date Superlum. Dial SS/YG  3135 (1986** – Today)

16618 Submariner Date  Superlum. Dial Gold  3135 (1986** – Today)

14060 First with Sapphire crystal  3000 (1988*- 2001)

14060M  Updated Automatic Movement  3130 (2001 – Today)

14060M  Submariner 

16610LV 50th Anniversary

114060 Submariner Ceramic bezel (2012-2019)

116610LN Submariner Date with Ceramic bezel (2012-2019)

124060 Submariner (2020 – present) equipped with caliber 3230

126610LN Submariner Date (2020 – present) equipped with 3235

Want to learn more about Rolex History? Check out our article that describes how everything started.

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ROLEX SUBMARINER MISLUB The Beggining

The ROLEX SUBMARINER MISLUB can be considered a historic watch with a fascinating story to tell. When the first series of ref. 6538 Submariners was given to the divers of the Royal Marines’ Special Boat Squadron (later renamed to Special Boat Service), the divers reported that it was  extremely difficult to rotate the bezel as they were wearing their diving gloves. Also they expressed the need for a watch with a solid strap that it would be more convenient to wear while diving. 

In order to fulfil this request Rolex decided to create a special model just for them with ROLEX SUBMARINER MISLUB.  This was the beginning of the very limited collection that counted only 21 watches and that would be the base of the amazing the Submariner Reference 6538. The watch was named therefore Mislub under the Reference A/6538.

 

ROLEX 
Submariner
MISLUB 
Ref A/6538
ROLEX Submariner MISLUB Ref A/6538

ROLEX SUBMARINER MISLUB and Public

As  ROLEX SUBMARINER MISLUB was only produced for military reasons it was never available for the public, therefore from the beginning was considered a highly collectable watch.  As there was only 21 watches produced there were all produced at the same time therefore all the watches have the same  manufacturing date of the final quarter of 1957. 

ROLEX SUBMARINER MISLUB Characteristics

As the divers asked for a specific bezel that would be easy to rotate while wearing their diving gloves Rolex created a bezel that was more extended making it much more helpful for the divers. The new bezels were made of German Silver, the dials were kept the same the only difference was that Rolex decided to replace the 200m=660ft with the 200/660 and change the color lettering of the Submariner with red. 

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WHAT’S YOUR WATCH, MR. BOND?

The Rolex “Bond Submariner” watch 6538 is the original Submariner to be featured in James Bond/007 films. Both Connery and Roger Moore sported a number of different Sub references during their respective tenures, but it’s the first model 007 wore as he set about ruining Dr. No’s plans for world domination that will be forever be known as the Bond Submariner, a vintage Rolex Submariner that is incredibly hard to find.

The Iconic Rolex Submariner 6538: A Legacy of Bond Films and Collector Prestige

The 6538 gained a lot of attention among Rolex fanatics. With its unique black, rotating bezel, an amazing added feature since the watch’s inception, it was influenced by Rolex’s own Turn-O-Graph ref. 6202. The ref. 6538 was produced with a massive variation of different dials with tiny changes concerning the color or the amount of text, assuming that these changes that we can notice were randomly produced.

Among the most immediately noticeable differences between certain types of watches is whether they have what is known as 2-line or 4-line dials.

Produced between 1954 and 1959, the 38 mm tonneau thinner-shaped Oyster case features more beveled lugs, a screw back, and a large screw-down crown. It is waterproof under water pressure up to an impressive 300 meters or 1000 feet. The Rolex Submariner 6538, with its caliber 1030 nickel-finished lever and 25-jewel movement, became the first of the brand’s calibers to gain official chronometer status, winning certification after challenging testing from the COSC. While all Submariner 6538 watches are highly popular among watch collectors, one is getting more attention than the others and is highly collectable and hard to get due to its limited production and 4-line dial.

 

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ROLEX SUBMARINER BIG CROWN Ref 6200 History

ROLEX SUBMARINER Big Crown REF 6200” made its debut in 1954,  it took on the nickname Big Crown because of its large crown. The need for the Big Crown on the 6200 was due to the need to create a watch with thick gloves in heavy-duty situations. What is also interesting is that many of the 6200 have military provenance.

ROLEX SUBMARINER BIG CROWN 6200.png
ROLEX SUBMARINER BIG CROWN 6200.png

ROLEX SUBMARINER BIG CROWN Ref 6200 Dives in that Watch Legacy

The Rolex Submariner 6200 is a legend in the vintage Rolex collecting community. There were only a small number of productions (approximately around 300 were produced by Rolex) in a tied serial range of 31.9xx–32.2xx. The Submariner 6200 came in three different dial versions. In some cases, you can find the big logo and “Oyster Perpetual” text under 12 o’clock, while in others, you can notice a smaller logo and text, or some may have the “SUBMARINER” label above 6 o’clock while others don’t.

In 2013, Christie’s sold a Submariner ref. 6200 with “Officially Certified Chronometer” text under the “Submariner” label for CHF 485,000. This model is the first Submariner with 200 meters of water resistance, featuring an A296 caliber. The auction house stated that this is the only known example of the Submariner 6200 to include the “OCC” text.

According to Rolex collectors, if you ask them, what is the most important diving watch—the holy grail of all subs? They will all answer the big crown 6200. The Paul Newman Daytona of Submariners watches!

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