GERALD GENTA

THE INCREDIBLE GERALD GENTA

Behind Gérald Genta , is hidden one of the most interesting and creative minds in the history of watchmaking. Borned in Geneva, Switzerland (1 May 1931 – 17 August 2011) was the creator for many lines for IWC, Omega, Universal Genève, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. In all his life Gérald Genta had a mission, to overcome all the challenges creative or technical and achieve the extraordinary. In all his life he constantly reinvented himself therefore his creations were always unique. This unique ability allowed him to work throughout his career with the most important watch masterpieces were for Patek Phillipe the famous Nautilus, Cartier Santos Octagon as well as for Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

GERALD GENTA AND Audemars Piquet Royal Oak

One of the most important partnerships that defined the future of Audemars Piquet was the collaboration with Maestro and the creation of one of the most iconic watches for the brand, Royal Oak. In 1970, they reached out in order to design a new watch . It was Inspired by a vintage diving helmet attached to the rest of the suit with screws, the model was sketched in just one night. The designer transferred the octagonal shape to the design of this piece, keeping the screws on the bezel. The Royal Oak was the first luxury sports watch that was ever made from steel and changed forever the perception of this metal and its position in luxury watches.

Universal Geneve The Polerouter

One of the first collaborations of the creative and young at the time Gérald Genta was with Universal Geneve when in 1954 was assigned to create a watch that would celebrate the historic flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles via the North Pole, called the Polerouter.

IWC the ingenieur REF 1832

IWC Ingenieur SL, was launched in 1976 as the leader model of the SL collection, a collection of luxury sports watches with cases and bracelets made of stainless steel. The watch featured a bold aesthetic that was presented with a screw-on, round bezel with five recesses, a special pattern on the dial and an integrated steel bracelet with H-links. The Ingenieur SL was nicknamed “Jumbo” for its extra impressive case size. Although its design was unique as in many cases of innovative design the public was not ready to appreciate it therefore only a little more than 1000 pieces were produced during the following years.

Omega Constellation

In 1959, Omega appointed Maestro to create a new strategic for the Constellation range one of the most important collection for Omega. It was his creative approach that played a crucial role to the rebirth of Constellation. This collaboration was really important for him as well as from that point he was perceived as a “star designer”.

Patek Phillipe “The Nautilus”

In 1976 Phillippe Patek appointed Maestro to design a new watch, named Nautilus that is till now considered the most well known watch for Patek Phillipe. Nautilus was inspired by the nautical world and took its name as a tribute to Captain Nemo’s submarine in Jules Verne’s novel “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea”. Maestro creative mind conceived and illustrated this watch in a papaer napkin at a restaurant in just 5 minutes.

GERALD GENTA brand

In 1969, along the other partnerships and collaborations Gérald Genta created his own brand. 1977 can be considered as a very important milestone in his journey to watchmaking as he launched THE AUTOMATIC PERPETUAL CALENDAR. He was the first not only to create a perpetual automatic calendar and sealed his reputation as an innovator.

THE ULTRA-THIN MINUTE REPEATER

In 1981 Maestro introduced his first ultra-thin Minute Repeater with an impressive 2.72mm thickness. His new entrance emphasised to the importance of style in watches with unique dials crafted from white onyx, engraved bezels, and moon phases made from Lapis Lazuli. At the end of 1981 a perpetual calendar complication was added.

THE GEFICA SAFARI

In 1984 created a limited edition mens watch after receiving a request from three important clients that wanted a watch for safari, amazing Gérald Genta created The Gefica Safari.

THE DISNEY COLLECTION

In 1984 with a playful approach to the watch industry created a watch that few would dare to introduce, The Disney Collection. This line now plays an important part of the brands DNA that reflects his liberal and creative spirit that for many broke the rules of the till now conservative watch world.

In 2000 Bvlgari acquired the Gérald Genta brand until 2011 when the ownership passed to LVMH Group.

Want to learn more for the history of watches and its founders? Check out our article about HANS WILSDORF The amazing Rolex Founder

ROLEX ROOT BEER HISTORY

The Rolex “Root Beer” is a popular nickname given to certain watches that feature a distinct brown and gold color scheme. This nickname originated from the resemblance of the watch’s bezel to the color of root beer, a popular carbonated beverage.

Its history can be traced back to the 1960s, when Rolex introduced a new variation of their GMT-Master watch. The GMT-Master was originally designed for pilots and allowed them to track time in different time zones simultaneously. The watch featured a rotating bezel with a 24-hour scale, allowing the wearer to read a second time zone by aligning it with the GMT hand.

By the time of the ’80s, Hollywood was beginning to create iconic stars, one of them was Clint Eastwood, who stated that the Root Beer was one of his favorites, he even used it in several of his films such as Firefox (Firefox, 1982), Tightrope (1984) and In the line of fire (1993)

ROLEX FISRT GMT

The first Rolex GMT-Master “Root Beer” made its debut in the 1960s with reference 1675/3. It had a two-tone bezel with alternating brown and gold segments, giving it a unique and distinctive appearance. The brown color of the bezel was created by using anodized aluminum, which provided durability and a rich hue.

Rolex GMT, Root Beer Ref. 1675

ROLEX ROOT BEER through the 70s

Rolex continued to produce different variations throughout the years. In the 1970s, they introduced the reference 16753, which featured a new case design that also had a date function. This model was also available in a two-tone configuration, with a mix of stainless steel and yellow gold.

In the 1980s, they updated the design with the introduction of the reference 16713. This model retained the brown and gold bezel but featured a slimmer case profile and improved movement. It was crafted from a combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, giving it a luxurious and refined aesthetic.

RECENT YEARS

Rolex has reintroduced the theme in their GMT-Master II collection several years ago. At Baselworld 2018, they presented the GMT-Master II reference 126711CHNR, often referred to as the “Root Beer” or “Root Beer II.” This model featured a brown and black ceramic bezel with a two-tone Everose gold and stainless steel case and bracelet.

This collection has gained a strong following among watch enthusiasts due to its distinctive color scheme, luxurious materials, and Rolex’s reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and precision. The combination of brown and gold gives the watch a warm and sophisticated appeal, making it a sought-after timepiece in the luxury watch market.

The name has become synonymous with Rolex watches that feature a brown and gold bezel, and while the specific references and design details may vary over the years, the essence of the Root Beer remains an iconic and desirable part of the watchmaking legacy.

Today, however, Rolex makes a modern bezel in black and brown ceramic, fitted to Everose gold (ref. 126715CHNR) or two-tone Everose gold and steel GMT-Master II (ref. 126711CHNR) watches. CHNR is short for the French words for chocolate and black, “chocolat/noir”.

luxury watches

The Genius of Gérald Genta and His 9 Unforgettable Watch Creations