AUDEMARS PIQUET ROYAL OAK History

AUDEMARS PIQUET ROYAL OAK, the iconic watch that forever changed the history of AP was designed by the amazing Gerald Genta. In 1970 AP reached out this amazing watch genius in order to design a watch, inspired by the vintage diving helmet attached to the rest of the suit with screws Gerald Genta presented this magnificent model

1972, ROYAL OAK JUMBO

In 1972 AUDEMARS PIQUET ROYAL OAK was presented to the public under the Reference 5402ST with Calibre 2121,  Movement 127059. Bracelet 344, T21 Tapisserie dial, Case 67026, 39 mm available in steel but priced as much as a gold watch due to its unique characteristics. This amazing first model remained the same until 1976 but was categorized in 4 different series A,B,C and D.

It is important to note that as AP had under 100 employees the number of watches were limited therefore A series was limited to 2.000 pieces and therefore it is known as the A Series. It was also called Jumbo due to its 39mm diameter which was also the cause of its limited sales track.  In years to come Audemar Patek launched Models 14802 (1992), 15002 (1996), 15202 (2000) and 16202 (2022).

1976, ROYAL OAK II 8638

The need for a womens version of this amazing watch was obvious and this was able to come in life with the arrival of Audemars Piguet’s first female designer, Jacqueline Dimier. The birth of 8638 was a reality, made of steel, with its characteristic visible screws, self winding mechanism, Calibre 2062 (Rayville – LeCoultre blank)with its 29 mm diameter that made it extremely challenging to be produced.

In 1977 and onwards 8638 was created in two-tone and yellow gold versions. In 1978 the first white gold version was produced. A success from day one and according to AP records in 1976, 423 watches were sold in 1977,  1,000 units in 1978 and from the year it was obvious that it was a huge success for the company. In 1908’s the 8638 replaced its self winding movement with quartz.

1977, ROYAL OAK III

1977 was a really important year as AP introduced three new models 5402 and 8638 in three variations yellow and white gold as well as steel and yellow gold. Parallel with the introduction of the iconic 4100 known as ROYAL OAK III in 35MM and the 900.

ROYAL OAK III 4100

Designed by Jacqueline Dimier, Model 4100 sometimes appears in the sources under the name “Royal Oak III”. This model responds to growing demand in certain markets where the first 39 mm had not proved very popular.  Due to its popularity until 1981 AP introduced 27 new references.

Evolution  of Royal Oak throughout the years!

1977 introducing 35 MM

References 4100 followed by 4153, 4331, 14544, 14486, 14567, 14575, 14674

1983 introducing 36 MM with a combination of:

• Day Date for 5572, 5581, 5584
• Moon Phases 5658, 5595
• Three Hand Models 14498 (1986), 14700 (1990) plus 14701, 14702 and 14704

Want to learn more about the history of Audemars Piquet? Check our article here

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