AUDEMARS PIQUET ROYAL OAK History

AUDEMARS PIQUET ROYAL OAK, the iconic watch that forever changed the history of AP was designed by the amazing Gerald Genta. In 1970 AP reached out this amazing watch genius in order to design a watch, inspired by the vintage diving helmet attached to the rest of the suit with screws Gerald Genta presented this magnificent model

1972, ROYAL OAK JUMBO

In 1972 AUDEMARS PIQUET ROYAL OAK was presented to the public under the Reference 5402ST with Calibre 2121, Movement 127059. Bracelet 344, T21 Tapisserie dial, Case 67026, 39 mm available in steel but priced as much as a gold watch due to its unique characteristics. This amazing first model remained the same until 1976 but was categorized in 4 different series A,B,C and D.

It is important to note that as AP had under 100 employees the number of watches were limited therefore A series was limited to 2.000 pieces and therefore it is known as the A Series. It was also called Jumbo due to its 39mm diameter which was also the cause of its limited sales track. In years to come Audemar Patek launched Models 14802 (1992), 15002 (1996), 15202 (2000) and 16202 (2022).

1976, ROYAL OAK II 8638

The need for a womens version of this amazing watch was obvious and this was able to come in life with the arrival of Audemars Piguet’s first female designer, Jacqueline Dimier. The birth of 8638 was a reality, made of steel, with its characteristic visible screws, self winding mechanism, Calibre 2062 (Rayville – LeCoultre blank)with its 29 mm diameter that made it extremely challenging to be produced.

In 1977 and onwards 8638 was created in two-tone and yellow gold versions. In 1978 the first white gold version was produced. A success from day one and according to AP records in 1976, 423 watches were sold in 1977, 1,000 units in 1978 and from the year it was obvious that it was a huge success for the company. In 1908’s the 8638 replaced its self winding movement with quartz.

1977, ROYAL OAK III

1977 was a really important year as AP introduced three new models 5402 and 8638 in three variations yellow and white gold as well as steel and yellow gold. Parallel with the introduction of the iconic 4100 known as ROYAL OAK III in 35MM and the 900.

ROYAL OAK III 4100

Designed by Jacqueline Dimier, Model 4100 sometimes appears in the sources under the name “Royal Oak III”. This model responds to growing demand in certain markets where the first 39 mm had not proved very popular. Due to its popularity until 1981 AP introduced 27 new references.

AUDEMARS PIGUETROYAL OAK III — AUDEMARS PIGUET
ROYAL OAK III

Evolution of Royal Oak throughout the years!

1977 introducing 35 MM

References 4100 followed by 4153, 4331, 14544, 14486, 14567, 14575, 14674

1983 introducing 36 MM with a combination of:

Day Date for 5572, 5581, 5584
Moon Phases 5658, 5595
Three Hand Models 14498 (1986), 14700 (1990) plus 14701, 14702 and 14704

Want to learn more about the history of Audemars Piquet? Check our article here

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GERALD GENTA

THE INCREDIBLE GERALD GENTA

Behind Gérald Genta , is hidden one of the most interesting and creative minds in the history of watchmaking. Borned in Geneva, Switzerland (1 May 1931 – 17 August 2011) was the creator for many lines for IWC, Omega, Universal Genève, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. In all his life Gérald Genta had a mission, to overcome all the challenges creative or technical and achieve the extraordinary. In all his life he constantly reinvented himself therefore his creations were always unique. This unique ability allowed him to work throughout his career with the most important watch masterpieces were for Patek Phillipe the famous Nautilus, Cartier Santos Octagon as well as for Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

GERALD GENTA AND Audemars Piquet Royal Oak

One of the most important partnerships that defined the future of Audemars Piquet was the collaboration with Maestro and the creation of one of the most iconic watches for the brand, Royal Oak. In 1970, they reached out in order to design a new watch . It was Inspired by a vintage diving helmet attached to the rest of the suit with screws, the model was sketched in just one night. The designer transferred the octagonal shape to the design of this piece, keeping the screws on the bezel. The Royal Oak was the first luxury sports watch that was ever made from steel and changed forever the perception of this metal and its position in luxury watches.

Universal Geneve The Polerouter

One of the first collaborations of the creative and young at the time Gérald Genta was with Universal Geneve when in 1954 was assigned to create a watch that would celebrate the historic flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles via the North Pole, called the Polerouter.

IWC the ingenieur REF 1832

IWC Ingenieur SL, was launched in 1976 as the leader model of the SL collection, a collection of luxury sports watches with cases and bracelets made of stainless steel. The watch featured a bold aesthetic that was presented with a screw-on, round bezel with five recesses, a special pattern on the dial and an integrated steel bracelet with H-links. The Ingenieur SL was nicknamed “Jumbo” for its extra impressive case size. Although its design was unique as in many cases of innovative design the public was not ready to appreciate it therefore only a little more than 1000 pieces were produced during the following years.

Omega Constellation

In 1959, Omega appointed Maestro to create a new strategic for the Constellation range one of the most important collection for Omega. It was his creative approach that played a crucial role to the rebirth of Constellation. This collaboration was really important for him as well as from that point he was perceived as a “star designer”.

Patek Phillipe “The Nautilus”

In 1976 Phillippe Patek appointed Maestro to design a new watch, named Nautilus that is till now considered the most well known watch for Patek Phillipe. Nautilus was inspired by the nautical world and took its name as a tribute to Captain Nemo’s submarine in Jules Verne’s novel “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea”. Maestro creative mind conceived and illustrated this watch in a papaer napkin at a restaurant in just 5 minutes.

GERALD GENTA brand

In 1969, along the other partnerships and collaborations Gérald Genta created his own brand. 1977 can be considered as a very important milestone in his journey to watchmaking as he launched THE AUTOMATIC PERPETUAL CALENDAR. He was the first not only to create a perpetual automatic calendar and sealed his reputation as an innovator.

THE ULTRA-THIN MINUTE REPEATER

In 1981 Maestro introduced his first ultra-thin Minute Repeater with an impressive 2.72mm thickness. His new entrance emphasised to the importance of style in watches with unique dials crafted from white onyx, engraved bezels, and moon phases made from Lapis Lazuli. At the end of 1981 a perpetual calendar complication was added.

THE GEFICA SAFARI

In 1984 created a limited edition mens watch after receiving a request from three important clients that wanted a watch for safari, amazing Gérald Genta created The Gefica Safari.

THE DISNEY COLLECTION

In 1984 with a playful approach to the watch industry created a watch that few would dare to introduce, The Disney Collection. This line now plays an important part of the brands DNA that reflects his liberal and creative spirit that for many broke the rules of the till now conservative watch world.

In 2000 Bvlgari acquired the Gérald Genta brand until 2011 when the ownership passed to LVMH Group.

Want to learn more for the history of watches and its founders? Check out our article about HANS WILSDORF The amazing Rolex Founder

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