The Rolex Oyster Perpetual history starts almost over a century ago back in 1926. Rolex created Oyster Perpetual the first fully protected from dust and also waterproof watch, features quite revolutional from the time been. Rolex Oyster Perpetual took its name Oyster due to its sealed like an Oyster case that ensured that the mechanism was fully protected.
ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL HISTORY
1931, Self Winding Movement ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL
1931 was an important year for Rolex as the Self Winding movement was invented with a Perpetual rotor, it is important to say at this point that till now this is the most important part in the mechanism of every watch as it allows the watch to wind using the natural movement of your wrist and accordingly that allows the rotor spins and wind the watch.
ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL SELF WINDING MOVEMENT
1950, ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL Cal. 645 and 1030.
In 1950 Rolex introduced to new Calibers 645 and 1030
1959, ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL Ref 1002
Its the first time that the watch has a plastic crystal, accompanied with 1560 nor 1570 Calibre.
1960s, ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL Mid Size
In the 1960s Rolex also introduced a new Mid Size Oyster Perpetual in order to cover the needs of its lovers. Midsized Rolex are been described the Rolex watches that their case is between 31mm-37mm.
1964, ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL Cal 1130
Its the first Rolex Oyster that is featuring the Calibre 1130 and has a plastic Crystal with a case dimension of 24.6mm
1974, ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL Cal 2030
In 1974 Rolex introduced a new Calibre 2030 that had 28 jewels and the Hack Function, that gave the ability the watch to stop in order to set the second hand. The watch with this feature can be synchronized with a reference time source.
1983, ROLEX PERPETUAL Cal 2130
In 1983 Rolex is introducing a size increase at 25mm and a new Calibre 2130.
1986, OYSTER PERPETUAL Sapphire Crystal
1986 can be considered the end of the plastic crystal era and the begging of a new with the introduction of Sapphire Crystal.
1995, OYSTER PERPETUAL Calibre 2135
Rolex is introducing a new Calibre under the reference 2135.
1998, OYSTER PERPETUAL Ref 76080
An important year for Rolex as with the introduction of 76080 we can identify the need of Rolex to redefine the identity of Perpetual therefore we can see that it turns back to its history by adapting again the 25mm in its case that now is accompanied with the new Calibre 2235.
2014, ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 4 Case Diameters
In 2014 Oyster is produced in 4 different diameters for the first time in its history 26mm, 31mm, 34mm and 36mm.
2014, ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL New Case Diameter
in 2014 Rolex is again introducing a new Case Diameter of. 39mm
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1931
First Self-winding watch movement by Rolex.
1950
Introducing Cal. 645 and 1030.
1959
Ref 1002, Plastic crystal, Calibre 1560 or 1570, a 26 jewel calibre.
1960s
Mid size Oyster Perpetual.
1964
Calibre 1130, Plastic Crystal, Diameter 24.6 mm
1974
Calibre 2030, 28 jewels, Hack function.
1983
Calibre 2130, Case Size 25mm.
1986
Sapphire crystal Oyster Perpetual.
1995
Calibre 2135.
1998
Ref 76080, Case Diameter 25mm, Calibre 2235 31 jewels.
Rolex Submariner is one of the most important watches in the Rolex Collection.
ROLEX SUMBARINER 6204
The first model was launched in 1953 with Reference Number 6204 and is considered one of the most unique collective watches as its is the First Submariner A.260.
ROLEX SUMBARINER 6204 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 6204 CIRCA: 1953 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 37mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet BRACELET / STRAP SIZE: 7.1 inches DIAL: Black MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: A260
ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCE 6204
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6205
The following years (1954) the second First Submarine A.260 was launched with reference number 6205
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6205 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 6205 CIRCA: 1954 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 37mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet DIAL: Black MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: A260
rolexsubmariner6205
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6200
In 1954 it was introduced the Rolex Submariner Ref6200 A.296
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6200 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 6200 CIRCA: 1954 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 37mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet DIAL: Black MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: A296
rolexsubmariner6200
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538
In 1954 Rolex introduced Rolex Submariner with Reference 6538 -1030 the one featured in the photo below is a special one with this amazing unique tropical dial. It is also known as Big Crown due to its 8mm Crown and one of the most sought out watches as it was the watch of James Bond in Dr No!
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 6538 CIRCA: 1954 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 37mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet DIAL: Black MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: 1030
RolexSubmariner6538
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538A
The Rolex Submariner 6538A the Military Submariner 1030 also known as “Coroncione”. It is considered one of the first Single Red Submariner as it has this red depth rating on the lower part of index. It is said but not confirmed by Rolex that they we only 21 watches produced under that specific reference due to the spacial need of the Royal Marine to be able to spin the bezel with their diving gloves. As the production of this watch was so limited the 6538A is considered one of the rarest Rolex watches.
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538A has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 6538A CIRCA: 1955 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 37mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet DIAL: Black MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: 1030
Rolex Submariner 6536 was introduced to the global market between 1955-1959. Also Know as The James Bond Watch, the Rolex Submariner 6536 with the 1030 Caliber is a watch that will be always one of my favorite watches. Caring a lot of history not only cause James Bond is my favorite movie but also with its unique “Small Crown” of 6mm that differs from the “Big Crown” of 8mm .
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6536 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 6536 CIRCA: 1955-1959 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 37mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet DIAL: Black MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: 1030
rolexsubmariner6536/1
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5508
The Rolex Submariner 5508 was produced between 1957-1961, with also its Small Crown of 6mm and its Caliber 1530.
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5508 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 5508 CIRCA: 1957-1961 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 37mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet DIAL: Black MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: 1530, 26 jewels
rolexsubmariner5508
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5510
Rolex Submariner was produced just for one year in 1958 with a 1530 Caliber and two variation in the crown a Small Crown of 6mm and a Big Crown of 8mm.
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5510 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 5510 CIRCA: 1958 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 37mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet CROWN: Small & Big DIAL: Black MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: 1530, 26 jewels
rolexsubmariner5510
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5512 Chronometer
The Rolex Submariner 5512 is one of the most collective watches for all the watch enthusiast as it is the only watch that in the almost two decades of its life between 1959-1978 changed so much. The first characteristic is its Caliber, during this two decades the Caliber changed from 1530 to 1560 and lastly to 1570.
What about its dial?
The second characteristic is its dial that until 1966 it was spotted with only black glossy dial that changed to a matte version. Have in mind that if you bump into a glossy dial you need to buy it as quickly as possible as they are considered quick rare and its price multiple in auctions.
Size matters
Another interesting element is that its size changed for the first time from 38mm to 40mm.
But why Chronometer?
The Calliber 1530 was the Calliber needed from the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) in order to obtail the certification of “chronometer” title that was certifying the high level of precision and uniqueness of timekeeping instruments and that guarantee the extreme quality, as well as the know-how applied throughout the production process. Therefore two lines were added so as to describe the “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”
Crown Guards
The last change that we can spot in Rolex Submariner 5512 that had a significant impact in the appearance of Submariners was the “shoulders” that were first introduced and its role was to protect the big crown and the mechanism of the Rolex and became a trademark of the Submariners
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5512 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 5512 CIRCA: 1959-1978 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 40mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet CROWN: Small & Big DIAL: Black (Glossy & Matte) MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: 1530- 1560-1570
rolexsubmariner5512
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513 First Crown
Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1962 and was discontinued in 1989. Is is known as the First Crown Guard as it was the first one that Crown were added and was spotted with Calliber 1520 and 1530.
Its usefull to know that up until 1980 the customers could chose between a certified by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) and a non certified Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) Submariner.
What about the dials?
This is really interesting as in this specific model we can spot all the basic variations of dials provided by Rolex. Between 1962-1966 the Submariner was introduced with a Gilt dial followed between 1966-1984 from a Matte dial and then between 1984-1990 with a gloss dial, following the opposite path of 5512 that were first introduced with a glossy dial later changer to a matte.
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 5513 CIRCA: 1962-1989 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 40mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet CROWN: First Crown DIAL: Black (Gilt& Matte &Glossy ) MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: 1530- 1520
rolexsubmariner5513
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5514 Comex
My favorite Submariner, maybe because this was the first Rolex that was introduced to me and I fell in love with watches and their history. You can spot it between 1969-1977 named Rolex Submariner Comex with a 1520 Caliber.
But why Comex?
Rolex worked closed with Compagnie Maritime d’ Expertises known as COMEX in order to design and manufacture a special watch addressed to the special needs of COMEX divers. As divers go to extreme depth there was a special need to develop a special watch that would release the pressure, this was the beginning of the unique COMEX. You can spot them immediately as you can see COMEX logo on the dial. With a limited production of 800-1000 watches it is considered a limited must have watch!
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5514 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 5514 CIRCA: 1969-1977 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 40mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Stainless SteelOyster Bracelet DIAL: Black & COMO logo MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: 1520
Rolex Submariner Comex 5514
ROLEX SUBMARINER 1680/8 First Date
The Rolex Submariner 1680 Cal 1570 was produced between 1969-1978 and is the one that has many firsts , it is the first Sub that feature a date therefore its also called the First Date, the first one that was produced in yellow gold and the first one that has a cyclops lens in the plexi glass. Lastly but not least the matt black dial in the one featured above has also yellow gold markers the dial also known as the “nipple dial”.
ROLEX SUBMARINER 1680/8 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 1680/8 CIRCA: 1969-1978 CASE MATERIAL: Yellow Gold DIAMETER: 39mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Oyster Bracelet DIAL: Black – Nipple Dial MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time – Date CALIBER: 1570 automatic, 26 jewels
rolexsub1680/8
ROLEX SUBMARINER 1680
Rolex Submariner launched in 1969 and discontinued in 1979 is described as the First Submariner with Date and Caliber 1575. A beautiful 40mm stainless steel Submariner.
Red Submariner
This amazing Submariner as seen on the photo below can be easily been unidentified as an early piece due to its red writing of the Submariner in the dial also called among Rolex lovers the ” Red Submariner”.
ROLEX SUBMARINER 1680 has the following characteristics:
REFERENCE: 1680 CIRCA: 1969-1979 CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel DIAMETER: 40mm BRACELET / STRAP MATERIAL: Oyster Bracelet DIAL: Black MOVEMENT: Automatic FUNCTIONS: Time Only CALIBER: 1575 automatic, 26 jewels
Rolex Red Submariner
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513/5517
19705513/5517Submariner
DATES
REFERENCE
MODEL
1953-1954
6204
First Submariner A.260
1954-1955
6205
First Submariner A.260
1954
6200
Mercedes Hands – A.296
1955 – 1959
6538
First Submariner with Big Crown “James Bond” worn by Sean Connery in Dr. No
In this article we are providing you with a very quick and comprehensive diagram of all Rolex Watch Types and their reference number. It serves as a quick guide for the very first entry into the Rolex amazing world, a world full of luxury, innovation and the country of the most amazing minds that their goal in life was to exceed their presence with something bigger. This article is the very start of discovering the amazing watch world.
ROLEX MODEL TYPES
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Rolex Model Types Reference
Submariner (no date)
55 & 140
Submariner
16, 166 & 168
Sea Dweller
16 & 166
GMT Master
16, 65, 167
GMT Master II
167, 1167
Day-Date (President)
65, 66, 18, 180, 182 & 183
Datejust
16 & 162
Daytona Manual Wind
62
Daytona Cosmograph
165, 1165
Explorer II
165
Oyster Perpetual
10, 140, 142
Airking
55 & 140
Date
15 & 150
OysterquartzDatejust
170
Oysterquartz Day-Date
190
Yachtmaster
166, 686 & 696
Midsize Oyster Perp DJ
68, 682
Ladies Oyster Perpetual
67, 671, 672
Ladies Date
65, 69, 691 & 692
Ladies Datejust
65, 69, 691 & 692
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In this article we take a close look at all Rolex Explore Models providing the technical characteristics of the models as well as photos of Rolex Explorer Models.
Rolex Pre Explorer Ref 6150 (1953)
6150 can be described as equally iconic and important in the Rolex Explorer Models collection as 6298. It is considered the earliest version of Explorer that isn’t signed as Explorer on the dial . Calibre: cal. A2960 automatic, 2 jewels, Movement number: 47’718 Size: 36 MM
Rolex Explorer Ref 6350 (1953 to 1955)
Presented in 1953, the first watch that carried the Explorer name in its dial, Caliber 1030 movement
Rolex Explorer I Ref 6610 (1955 to 1959)
One of the first Rolex Explorer Models 6610 first featured in 1959 as the replacement of 6150, with its amazing steel case, Oyster bracelet in 36mm and a black gilt dial, 3, 6, 9 indexes with tritium lime.
Reference 6610 “Red Depth Rating” (1955 to 1956)
Rolex Explorer Super Precision Ref 5504 (1958)
In 1958 Rolex Explorer Super Precision with Ref 5504 was introduced to the market. 5504 is actually identical with 6610 with Cal: 1030, Diameter: 36MM Crystal: Plexiglass, Dial: 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals.
Rolex Explorer II Ref 5500 (1958 – 1967)
5500 is a tricky watch as it is actually an Air King with the typical 3,6,9 Explorer dial. Available in two versions Precision and Super Precision with a limited number of pieces as it was only produced between 1958 – 1967. Calibre: cal. 1520 automatic winding, 26 jewels Diameter:34 MM
Rolex Explorer Ref 1016 (1960 to 1989)
Rolex Explorer 1016 was presented in the late 1950s with its amazing glossy and matte black dial, carrying Cal 1560 and 1570, Diameter: 36MM, Dial: 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals in tritium lume. Discontinued in 1989 and replaced by 14270.
Rolex Explorer I Ref 14270 (1989-2010)
REFERENCE 14270: Explorer I model. No-Date. SIZE: 36mm. DIAL: 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals.CALIBER: 3000
ROLEX EXPLORER 14270
Rolex Explorer II Nicknamed “Steve McQueen” Ref 1655
One of the most sought out of Rolex Explore Models is the ” Steve McQueen”. The amazing Explorer II that Steve McQueen used to wear in real life therefore 1655 took its name after this amazing actor that was highly connected with him.
Reference 16570: With its unique Polar Dial produced in both Black and White, 24-hour bezel, GMT hand, Case: Stainless steel, Dimensions: 40MM. Due to a mistake in the production in the early series some of the white dials are creamy.
ROLEX EXPLORER 16570
Rolex Explorer II Ref 16550
With 24-hour bezel Hands, luminous 24-hour big arrow hand, the Rolex Explorer II reference 16550 is a watch that was dedicated to those who spent long periods of time in dark environments such as spelunkers. It is considered a predecessor of 16570.
ROLEX EXPLORER 16550
Rolex Explorer I Ref 6298 “Big Bubblebacks”
This is considered as the prototype watch used by explorers in the early 1950s that lead Rolex to create a special line for the adventurers the till now known as the Explorer also called “Big Bubblebacks” due to its case back. CALIBRE : A296 Automatic and Dimension: 36MM
ROLEX EXPLORER 6298
Rolex Explorer Ref 6098
Introduced in the 1950s it was the only Explorer with a white dial and without feature Arabic numerals at the quarters until of the Explorer II. It is also considered as the successor of 5520. Diameter: 36MM, Cal: a 296/
Rolex Explorer II Ref 5506
This amazing watch was presented in the mid 1950s , it was the first time that Rolex used 1530 automatic movement and was available in two tone and gold filled case. Dimensions: 34MM Movement: Automatic Rolex Caliber 1520.
Rolex Explorer II Ref 216570
Introduced in 2015 Dial: Black and White, Dimension 42mm, stainless steel automatic dual time wristwatch with date and bracelet, Circa: 2015, Caliber: cal. 3187 automatic, 31 jewels.
Rolex Explorer II Ref 16570
Dial: Black and White, Calibre: cal. 3185 automatic, 31 jewels Dimension 39mm. It is important to note that in 1995 Rolex with Van Cleef collaborate in order to create a special edition dial that was sold in Sothebys. Its unique dial signed by Van Cleef is making it extremely collectable and rare in the Rolex Explorer Models Collection.
Rolex Explorer II Ref 6299
6299 : The reference 6299, as opposed to the standard 6298, refers to the watch being Yellow gold/stainless steel as opposed to the ref 6298 being only stainless steel.
Rolex Explorer II Ref 5501
Is also considered to be part of the big Air King collection that was presented in 1945 with its fluted gold bezel and named ”Precision” on the dial and the text ”Explorer”. Some of this models have a honeymoon dial making the watch extremely rare and highly collective. Calibre: cal. 1530 automatic, 25 jewels, Diameter: 34MM
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The Rolex Air-King was introduced in 1945, alongside the Datejust in order to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Rolex with 4635. This new model paid tribute to the British Royal Air Force that loved Rolex watches , and as it was introduced during World War II it was named Air King. In its early days it was not popular up until the introduction of 5500 in 1957 that can perceived actually as the starting point of Rolex Air King history.
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 4635
Made in the 1940s. The first Rolex Air-King, Circa: 1940s Ref: 4635, Dial: Bâton Indexes with Arabic Numerals , Caliber: Cal.10 1/2 , Case: Rhodium-Plated, Dimensions: 33 MM
ROLEX AIR-KING 4635
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 4925
Is the first Rolex Air King that feature the Air-King Moniker on the dial. Reference: 4925, Circa: 1956, Dimensions: 33MM
In 1989 Rolex introduced the 14000 that was discontinued 10 year laters in 1999. The original idea was to replace the 5500 with a new model that would offer a sapphire crystal, a smooth bezel and the 3000 movement to its fans.
Reference: 14010M, Produced: 2006, Dimensions: 34MM Caliber: 3130 Automatic movement
ROLEX AIR-KING 14010M
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 114234
Reference: 114234, Produced: 2006, Dimensions: 34MM Caliber: 3130 Automatic movement. Is considered the last model of the first generation of Air King 34MM it discontinued in 2014 after 7 years only. In 2016, Rolex re -introduced Rolex Air- King with the 40mm Ref 116900.
The 1002 is often quoted as an Air-King model, but it never was – it was only an Oyster perpetual.
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 1401
Stainless Steel. Water Resistant to 100 meters.
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 5701
A less-common model than most Air-King references.
ROLEX AIR-KING ref 116900
The newest and current Air-King model. Released in 2016. 39mm case.
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But first lets identify for those who started loving the watches just now what is the bezel?
A watch bezel describes the outer ring that holds the crystal/ plexi/ plastic glass that protects the dial of the watch. You can find it in yellow, white gold, platinum, steel and ceramic.
Smooth Rolex Bezel, where the bezel material is smooth without any signs or any decoration is considered as the simplest version of bezel. Its clean cut can be found in steel, gold and platinum.Engine Turned Bezel
Rolex Smooth Bezel
ROLEX BEZEL TYPE: DOOMED
Can be found as smooth and Doomed Bezel and frankly it can be considered quite the same for many BUT the difference is that doomed is a little bit more curved and when we are discussing high end watches this little details can make all the difference.
ROLEX BEZEL TYPE: FLUTED
The idea behind the creation of the Rolex fluted bezel was to create a bezel that would screw it down onto the glass and that would protect the mechanism and ensure that the watch would be waterproof.
It was introduced to the market almost a century ago, in 1926 when Rolex presented Rolex Oyster a watch that sealed and protected its mechanism like an oyster, and secure the watch mechanism from dust and water.
ROLEX FLUTED BEZEL
ROLEX BEZEL TYPE: ENGINE TURNED
The Rolex Bezel Engine Turned is created with engine turning that said it means rotating and it has an engraved or cutting pattern that distinguish them from the other bezels. Rolex Engine Turned Bezel is currently discontinued.
ROLEX ENGINE TURNED BEZEL
ROLEX BEZEL TYPE: BARK
The Rolex Bark Bezel has this distinguish and characteristic finish on its bezel easy to spot and identify.
ROLEX BARK BEZEL
ROLEX BEZEL TYPE: PYRAMIDE
Rolex Pyramide Bezel has this distinguish triangular signs at the bezel that looks like Pyramides.
ROLEX PYRAMIDE BEZEL
ROLEX BEZEL TYPE: ROTATING
Spotted in GMT Master, the bezel that rotates and in GMT can give you the indication for the divers of the underwater meters.
ROLEX ROTATING BEZEL
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Where can you find your Rolex Model Reference Number?
Rolex has hide its code number not in the back of the case as many companies have done but in a hidden place between the lungs! So in able to spot your Rolex reference number you need to unleash the bracelet and the code will be revealed.
ROLEX MODELS AND REFERENCE
Rolex Models and Reference Number
In the list below you can find your Model Type according to the Reference Number.
140 Oyster Perpetual Air-King and Submariner
142 Oyster Perpetual Chronometer 34mm and Explorer
Rolex Saru is one of the most impressive collection of Rolex, really luxury and hard to find. But what is Rolex SARU and where its name comes from? It is a combination of two amazing gems SApphire and RUby.
The Rolex GMT SARU is one of the most hard to find Rolex models of all time. Presented in the mid-1980s, , gold GMT hand, President bracelet with diamond-set middle links. Very few were produced and they are quite well hidden among collectors as few has surface the market.
ROLEX SARU GMT-Master II 116758
Presented in 2006, this amazing top luxury, unique watch that I had the privilege to have it in my hands, its unique yellow gold case combined with a top sapphire and ruby bezel and a diamond-set case, available both with a black or champagne diamond pave dial. A watch that no words can described it, with a Cal 3186 in 40mm.
ROLEX GMT IISARU 116578
ROLEX SARU GMT-Master II 116759
Presented in 2007, this amazing Rolex with its white gold case, diamond-set case, sapphire and ruby, SARU bezel was available both with a black or pave diamond dial. It comes with an amazing Oyster bracelt and a Calibre 3186 automatic.
ROLEX GMT II SARU 116579
ROLEX SARU GMT-Master II 126755
Presented in early 2020, rose gold case, diamond-set case, SARU bezel – available both with a black or pave diamond dial, with a 3186 Calibre and an Oyster Bracelet
ROLEX GMT II SARU 126755
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Its really interesting to begin our article with answering the question why the watch was named Sea Dweller but is also easy when you think that this watch had a specific need to fulfil the need of divers to have a working watch in extreme depths.
In 1967 Rolex launched Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller REF 1665, 40mm, waterproof to a depth of 610 metres. To meet the needs of professional deep-sea divers, the case was equipped with a helium escape valve so that, during long decompression phases in hyperbaric chambers, the helium from the gas mixtures used could be released without risking damage to the watch.
The first ROLEX SEA DWELLER Ref 1665
ROLEX SEA-DWELLER REF4000 Ref 1665
In 1978 Rolex launched the Sea-Dweller Ref 4000, waterproof to a depth of 1,220 metres (4,000 feet).
Waterproof to a depth of 4,000 feet (1,220 metres) for the Rolex Sea-Dweller, launched in 1967, and 12,800 feet (3,900 metres) for the Rolex Deepsea unveiled in 2008, they are the ultimate manifestation of Rolex’s leadership in divers’ watches and the result of decades of collaboration with diving professionals.
ROLEX SEA-DWELLER- Deep Sea 4000 Ref 116660
The first Deep Sea was introduced to the market by Rolex in 2008 , with its rotatable bezel, a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert, Chromalight display and reinforced waterproofness ready to cover every need of adventurous divers.
In 2014 Rolex released a special version of the model, the Rolex Deep Sea with a D-blue dial, to commemorate James Cameron’s historic solo dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, some 11,000 metres deep. From twilight blue to bottomless black, its two-colour gradient dial celebrates one man’s journey to the deepest place on Earth.
ROLEX SEA DWELLER D BLUE 116660
ROLEX RAREST MODELS
ROLEX SEA DWELLER “Single Red” Ref.1665
“Single Red” Sea-Dweller ref.1665 was the first prototype of the series that carried the red Sea-Dweller logo developed in 1965 but released 5 years later in 1970. Continuing with the “Double Red Sea-Dweller,” featuring two lines of red text on the dial, one reading “Sea-Dweller” and the other reading “Submariner 2000” directly below it.
“Single Red” Sea-Dweller ref. 1665
DIFFERENCES between “Single Red” and “Double Red Sea Dweller”
“Single Red” has a different case back than the “Double Red Sea Dweller” . The Single Red has engraved on the case back Oyster Gas Escape Valve (Patent Pending) but on the “Double Red Sea-Dweller” we can spot Rolex logo with Oyster*Gas Escape Valve* Rolex Patent. Moreover we can observe a noticeable difference on the dial, on the “Single Red” SEA DWELLER is mentioned on the bottom of the dial when on “Double Red Sea-Dweller” we can notice Sea Dweller Submariner 2000, 2000ft- 610m.
ROLEX SEA DWELLER Deep Sea Special (DSS)
The Rolex Deep Sea Special (DSS) is a powerful, rugged dive watch made to withstand unimaginable ocean depths. Only 35 models were ever produced, and this model is #35, which is seen engraved on the case back. It dates back to 1965 after the record breaking dive by Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh took place. With this special watch Rolex was able to prove its excellence and make a clear statement to the world, that there is nothing that they can’t do.
ROLEX SEA DWELLER Deep Sea Special (DSS)Want to learn more about Rolex History? Check out our article that describes how everything started.
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Rolex designed its very first first Submariner for the British Royal Navy. Presented in 1953, the Submariner was the first divers’ watch waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet) that gave them the ability with its rotatable bezel to read their immersion time. The Submariner has been ever since one of the most popular and cool sports watch not only among divers but for every watch addict who loves luxury sport watches.
ROLEX SUBMARINER
ROLEX SUBMARINER REF 6538
The first Submariner was introduced in 1957 along with the GMT Master II. The modern-day version of the Submariner was based on the GMT Master II. The GMT Master was a supercase that was originally used in military watches and carried the same case. It’s new case was about a mm larger than the originals. The new in-house calibers used in the watches were 3230 and 3235 respectively. The new calibers provide improved accuracy and power reserve. The first version of the Submariner, the 6538, was even used by James Bond in various movies. The Mercedes hand is a popular addition in the film.
ROLEX SUBMARINER REF 6200
The second version of the Submariner was launched in 1964. This was the first model with a date window. The Ref. 6200 introduced a number of improvements to the Submariner, some of which were carried forward to later models. The dial was more popular, with a date window and a cushion-shaped Oyster case. The watch’s design was influenced by the Rolex Explorer.
Materials…
Rolex Submariner has undergone incredible changes over the years, introducing 16 years later since it was presented the gold version (1969). It is interesting to mention that although Rolex prototyped the white gold version of 1680 it never released it for production. And the most important watch was 1680 that introduced to the Submariner series yellow gold.
ROLEX SUBMARINER Milestones over the years
6204 First Submariner A.260 (1953 – 1954)
6205 First Submariner A.260 (1954 – 1955)
6200 Mercedes Hands – A.296 (1954)
6538 First Submariner with Big Crown “James Bond” worn by Sean Connery in Dr. No (1955 – 1959)
6538A Military Submariner 1030 “Coroncione” (1955 – 1959)
6536 Small Crown 1030 (1955 – 1959)
6536/1 Chronometer 1030 (1955 – 1959)
5508 Small Crown 1530 (1957 – 1961)
5510 Small Crown 1530 (1958)
5510 (1958 only – Big Crown)
5512 Chronometer- The Cornini 1530-1560-1570 (1959 – 1978)
5513 First Crown Guard 1520-1530 (1962 – 1989)
5514 Comex Submariner 1520 (1969 – 1977)
1680/8 First DATE in Yellow Gold 1575 (1969 – 1978)
1680 First Submariner Date 1575 (1969 – 1979)
5517 Military Submariner 1520 (1977)
16808 Submariner Date Sapphire crystal Gold 3035 (1979 – 1987)
16800 Submariner Date Transitional model 3035 (1979 – 1988)
16803 Submariner Date Sapphire crystal SS/YG 3035 (1983 – 1988)
16610 Submariner Date Superluminova Dial 3135 (1986** – Today)
16613 Submariner Date Superlum. Dial SS/YG 3135 (1986** – Today)
16618 Submariner Date Superlum. Dial Gold 3135 (1986** – Today)
14060 First with Sapphire crystal 3000 (1988*- 2001)
14060M Updated Automatic Movement 3130 (2001 – Today)
14060M Submariner
16610LV 50th Anniversary
114060 Submariner Ceramic bezel (2012-2019)
116610LN Submariner Date with Ceramic bezel (2012-2019)
124060 Submariner (2020 – present) equipped with caliber 3230
126610LN Submariner Date (2020 – present) equipped with 3235
